Apollo's Templates
HomeBusinessLabelsHow to Print Labels
Before you print

How to print labels at home

Label sheets are the least forgiving thing a home printer is asked to do. Here is what goes wrong, in the order it usually goes wrong, and how to catch all of it with one sheet of ordinary paper.

Printing on paper is forgiving. If the page lands a sixteenth of an inch off, nobody notices and nobody cares. A label sheet removes that tolerance entirely: the same drift moves the top line of every address onto the gap above it, and you find out after thirty labels have already gone through.

The good news is that printer error is boringly consistent. A printer that lands a thirty-second of an inch high does it every time, on every sheet, for years. So this is a problem you solve once per printer rather than once per sheet — and the whole procedure below is really just a way of measuring your particular machine and then telling the template about it.

The six steps

  1. 1
    Set the scale to 100%
    In the print dialog, find the scaling option and set it to 100% or “Actual size”. Do not leave it on “Fit to page”, “Shrink oversized pages”, or “Scale to fit” — all three shrink the sheet by a few percent so nothing is clipped, which pulls every label inward from the edges. This single setting causes more ruined label sheets than everything else combined.
  2. 2
    Turn off any borderless or poster mode
    Borderless printing stretches the page slightly in the other direction. If your printer offers it, make sure it is off for label stock.
  3. 3
    Print one proof on plain paper
    Generate the sheet with “Outline each label” switched on and print a single copy on ordinary paper. This costs you one sheet of paper and about twenty seconds, and it is the only way to find out what your printer actually does rather than what it claims to do.
  4. 4
    Hold the proof against a real sheet
    Put an unused label sheet behind the proof and hold both up to a window. Check the four corners rather than the centre — drift is always most obvious at the edges. Every printed box should sit inside a real label with an even margin all round.
  5. 5
    Nudge, then re-proof
    If the proof sits high, low, or to one side, use the alignment nudge on any of our label makers to shift the whole grid in 1/32-inch steps in the opposite direction, and print another proof. Two rounds is usually enough. Once it lines up, that setting will hold for every sheet that printer produces.
  6. 6
    Feed one sheet at a time
    Load a single label sheet rather than a stack, and use the rear or manual-feed tray if your printer has one — the straighter the paper path, the less the sheet skews on its way through. If your printer curls label stock, that path usually fixes it too.
Worth the twenty seconds

People skip the plain-paper proof because it feels like an extra step. It is worth being blunt about the trade: the proof costs one sheet of paper and about twenty seconds. Skipping it costs a sheet of label stock, the time you spent typing the addresses, and usually a second trip to the shop, because nobody buys a spare box of labels. Do the proof the first time you use a printer with labels. After that, trust the nudge setting you found.

Put it into practice
Address labels — 30 per sheet
The maker with the nudge control and the start-at-label slider built in.
Start
Proof sheet
Blank label templates
Outlined blank grids — exactly what step three asks you to print.
Open

Frequently asked questions

Why are my labels printing slightly too high?
Almost always page scaling. Set the print dialog to 100% or “Actual size” and print again. If it is still high after that, your printer has a genuine feed offset — use the alignment nudge to push the grid down by a thirty-second or two and re-proof.
Do I need to change anything for inkjet versus laser?
Not in the template — the grid is identical, which is why one PDF works on both 5160 (laser) and 8160 (inkjet). What does matter is buying the right stock: inkjet label adhesive and face paper are designed for wet ink, and laser stock is designed to survive the fuser. Using the wrong one can smear, or in the worst case shed a label inside the printer.
Can I put a partly used label sheet back through the printer?
Yes, and every one of our makers has a “Start at label” control for exactly this. The one caution is with laser printers: a sheet with peeled labels has exposed adhesive edges, and heat plus exposed adhesive occasionally leaves residue on the rollers. If a sheet is more than half used it is usually not worth the risk.
My printer prints correctly on paper but not on labels. Why?
Label stock is heavier and stiffer than copier paper, so it can take a marginally different path through the rollers and land a fraction lower. That is exactly the kind of consistent, small offset the nudge control exists to cancel out — proof once on the label stock itself if the difference is bothering you.
Should I use a PDF or print from a Word template?
A PDF is more reliable. Word documents re-flow according to the printer driver and default paper size on the machine that opens them, which can shift a label grid without any warning. A PDF fixes the geometry at the point it was created, so what you proof is what prints.
How do I stop the ink smudging on inkjet labels?
Let the sheet sit for a minute before handling or stacking it, and avoid glossy label stock unless the box says it is inkjet-rated. Matte inkjet labels absorb ink quickly; glossy ones sit wet on the surface for far longer than you would expect.
Updated through July 2026 · by David Nelsen — written after two ruined December sheets.